Professional Jeweller uncovers some of the biggest trends of Baselworld 2015; from frogs and rainforests to bright blue hues and geometric cylinders.
Although softer pastel tones could be found at Baselworld this year, the overwhelming trend was for deeper, richer hues, especially amethyst, deep green sapphires, garnets, citrines and peridot.
Gradients of colour and ombré-effects could still be seen dotted around the show, especially in some of the fine pearl brands, but it was tonal colours that really wowed. Brazilian brand Brumani presented the trend with its Baobab and new Baobab Bubbles ranges, incorporating lemon quartz cabochons with green chrysoberyl, brown diamonds and hints of mandarin garnet, and rose gold with pink tourmalines and pink quartz.
When combining gemstones of a similar shade the emphasis falls on texture, shape and design. Fortunately, Jewellery Theatre excelled in all these areas with its Kaleidoscope range; using 3D elements and raised layers in pavé gemstone pieces to give the impression of two different hues, even though the same stones were being utilised.
At Judith Ripka, chrome diopside and green quartz paired beautifully in the Portofino range, while blue topaz, tourmalines and sapphires took on the tonal trend in the brand’s Caserta collection.
At Yoko London and Mikimoto, natural pearls were partnered with varying shades of opals to offer the same tonal effect, while Danish brand Ole Lynggaard presented combinations of aquamarine, green tourmaline, peridot and serpentine cabochon drops in its Lotus earrings.
FLOWERS, JUNGLES AND RAINFORESTS
The concept of secluded wildflower gardens and overgrown jungles filtered into the collections of many fine jewellery houses, including Boucheron, Fabergé, Carla Amorim, Damiani and Carrera y Carrera. Fabergé’s high jewellery Secret Garden collection offers a particularly breathtaking combination of precious gemstones and diamonds, layered to give the impression of blooms growing entwined with each other.
Jewellery Theatre’s Rainforest range took its inspiration from broad flat leaves that catch water droplets as they fall to the forest floor, while Roberto Coin’s Garden collection took a more global approach, incorporating bamboo, vines, leaves and delicate daisy-like blooms.
Pearl brand Autore was inspired by native Australian orchids for its eyecatching Baselworld high jewellery collection. The aptly-named Orchid collection fuses baroque pearls with colourful flower clasps, which can be removed and placed at any point along the necklace to create different looks for the wearer.
Subtle references to wings and feathers could be seen at a variety of brands exhibiting at Baselworld this year, including Jacob & Co, Casato, Carrera y Carrera, Messika, Garrard and Stephen Webster, but it was the more outlandish animal designs that really captured the imagination. Boucheron presented a selection of feminine hummingbird pieces (including a particularly stunning morganite cocktail ring), while Carrera y Carrera opted to focus on squirrels and butterflies in its Savia and Alegoria collections respectively.
Swarovski Atelier presented some unusual scorpion pieces with a gothic edge — something echoed by Jacob & Co in its spider-filled Jacob’s Webb collection. But the real boundary-pusher was Roberto Coin with a treasure trove of animal- inspired pieces, including its limited edition Falco collection with black, brown and white diamonds. Other beasts to get a gemstone-encrusted makeover include frogs, parrots and ‘Aries’ the ram.
At Italian brand Sicis, its Quetzal peacock cocktail rings, crafted with its signature micro-mosaic technique, offered an incredible vibrancy of colour and unusual texture. Elsewhere, Carrera y Carrera showcased its peacock feather cuff, featuring two large sapphires and a plethora of diamonds.
Serpents were also a recurring theme at the Swiss show, with Ole Lynggaard presenting a long-awaited collection and Nikos Koulis wowing with twisting incarnations for fingers and ears.
SKIES AND OCEANS
The brightest sky blues were all covered by the wealth of Paraiba tourmaline on display at Baselworld this year, especially at Chopard, which presented a staggering 41.57ct Paraiba surrounded by a halo of white diamonds in its high jewellery collection. Hans D Krieger, De Grisogono and Arunashi also wowed with their Paraiba tourmaline offers, while other brands opted for topaz, turquoise and sapphires for their fix. Fabergé’s Summer in Provence collection, for example, combines blue enamel with turquoise beads and Paraiba tourmaline, plus pearls and baguette emeralds.
At Marco Bicego, its best-selling 18ct yellow gold Lunaria collection was given an update for Basel with aquamarine. On the other side of the show, Stephen Webster combined turquoise, tanzanite and blue topaz in his Gold Struck collection, while Mikimoto combined its baroque pearls with deep blue sapphires and alternated its strung pearls with turquoise beads for the summer months.
Another highlight of this year’s Baselworld was the contemporary use of pearls. CMJ Media director Sarah Carpin comments: “Pearls are enjoying a renaissance – pearl brands like Mikimoto, Yoko Pearls and Autore all reported a successful show with collections that used pearls in more daring designs such as ear cuffs and ear jackets, playful uses of colour and asymmetry.”
Georg Jensen introduced pearls for its SS15 Neva collection; Utopia showcased a dramatic range of Tahitian pearls combined with sapphires; and Assael unveiled its collection to support wildlife charity Tusk in association with designer Julie Parker.
This feature originally appeared in the April 2015 issue of Professional Jeweller. Read it here.