Graduate jewellers gear up for New Designers 2013

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Show returns to London’s Business Design Centre.

By Jessica Knowles

New Designers celebrates its 28th edition this year, with Professional Jeweller highlighting some of the confirmed exhibitors who are now preparing to show their work to jewellery buyers, enthusiasts and businesses.

Part One of New Designers, featuring graduate and established jewellers, takes place at the Business Design Centre in Angel, London, from Wednesday June 26.

The One Year On area is this year curated by designer Jethro Macey and will showcase a selected group of about 50 emerging designers who are in their first year of business. The designers are selected for their entrepreneurial flair and the exceptional quality of their work.

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Showing as part of One Year On are Grace Hamilton, Ciara Bowles, Andrew Markou, Arturo Borrego and 2012 Bright Young Gem Neil Marlow with his brand Nilplug.

Grace Hamilton of Grace Hamilton Contemporary Jewellery honours traditional techniques by dying each yarn by hand before hand-crafting pieces using crochet and knotting skills. Grace has been nominated as one of Selfridges’ Bright Young Things 2013.

Ciara Bowles Contemporary Jewellery uses light-weight aluminium with materials such as suede chenille and often employs powder-coating and semi-precious stones to create an interesting aesthetic and tactile quality.

Andrew Markou is a broochmaker who works predominantly in landscaping materials. He creates ambiguous pieces that leave themselves open to interpretation by the wearer.

Arturo Borrego fabricates unisex brooches inspired by the phenomena and relevance of insignia as recognition of worth in societies worldwide throughout time.

Neil Marlow’s Nilplug is influenced by comic book art, space rockets and 1950s America. His pieces reference a time of dreams, expectation and ambition. With his collection he aims to communicate the idea that "escape is an option".

New Designers will also play host to 3,000 students from UK universities and colleges for the two week showcase including those with high-profile jewellery design courses such as Central Saint Martins, Sheffield Hallam, Birmingham City University and London Metropolitan University.

Edinburgh College of Art student Elizabeth Campbell is just one of the many jewellery graduates showing this year. She is inspired by visual literacy and uses enamel, working with the material to create unexpected results.

Also from University of Edinburgh is Sally Morrison who draws her inspiration from Brutalism and Futurism in architecture and translates these into large-scale rings and body pieces, which are intended to empower the wearer.

Emma Burfoot studies at the Birmingham School of Jewellery at BCU where she makes wearable structures that take inspiration from angular metalwork and how negative spaces interact with man-made constructions. She uses a mixture of traditional and modern technologies to create pieces that are often oversized and bring together hard lines and more delicate elements.

Many exhibitors at New Designers have already made a name for themselves prior to the show, making New Designers not only a place to discover emerging talent but also a venue for seeing known designs first hand.

Nancy McAlister is the designer behind Pez Jewellery, which was shown during London Fashion Week and at The Louvre during Paris Fashion Week this year. She works predominantly with plastic, creating work that is purposely hard to wear and targeted at collectors who have a special interest in unconventional pieces.

NV Jewellery consists of modern pieces that are inspired by the Art Deco aesthetic of glamour, modernity and geometric shapes. NV creator Neelakshi Vidyalankara is a previous winner of the annual Inspired by the V&A competition.

With constantly progressing methods for design, New Designers is a chance for graduates to present truly innovative work as well as unconventional, unique designs such as that of Anaïs Paulard whose jewellery aims to create a deeper connection by interacting with its wearer. Her I Have Met Someone Happy Today collection spreads ink, leaks pigment and blows polystyrene balls leaving tangible traces of themselves as they move.

 

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