Fei Liu, Claudia Bradby, Rachel Entwistle and SHO among winners.
By Jessica Knowles
The IJL Editor’s Choice award winners have been announced ahead of this year’s trade show on September 1 to 4 2013.
Now in its fifth year, the Editor’s Choice awards recognise eight designers and brands showcasing original and cutting edge jewellery at IJL. It highlights brands creating "innovative, eye-catching and commercial jewellery collections".
This year’s entrants were judged by jewellery writer and consultant Claire Adler. She said of her choices: "The Editor’s Choice awards at IJL this year are a fresh mix of original thinking, daring design and sound business. Our eight winning designers range from one brand which had a significant presence at this year’s Cannes Film Festival, to designers on the cusp of establishing a foothold on the international jewellery scene."
There are four categories designed to identify outstanding work: Technical Excellence, Visual Impact, Originality and Commercial Vision.
The 2013 Editor’s Choice winners
Commercial Vision: a piece or collection being produced that demonstrates thorough research of the target market and trends and has high sales turnover.
Winner: Claudia Bradby – Essentials Range
A contemporary range of jewellery that seeks to highlight the simple beauty of the pearl which is offset with silver. The contrast of textures, and materials work to make a collection that is easily wearable for a variety of consumers.
Highly Commended: Phoebe Jewellery – Squirrel Acorn and Leaf Necklace
The Squirrel Acorn and Leaf Necklace is part of the Woodland Collection. Pieces are made from sterling silver and combined with gold vermeil and hand turned oak parts to represent acorns. The necklace features gold vermeil red squirrel silhouettes around a double chain finished with an oak leaf shaped clasp.
Visual Impact: A show stopping piece or collection most likely to be picked up by press due to being particularly photogenic and which has the most potential for looking impressive in print.
Winner: Annabelle Lucilla – Double Oriental Peacock Necklace
The Peacock Necklace features intricately etched metallic graphics. Modernised fretwork balances domed etched peacocks, which have symmetry, balance of form and shape, with the use of curvilinear lines to compliment geometric profiles.
Highly Commended: SHO – Sarah Ho Couture Paradis Earrings
Delicately hand crafted in platinum with 18ct rose gold accents, and set with 5.68cts of beautiful brilliant cut diamonds and stunning rare conch pearls.
Highly Commended: Tresor Paris – Blue Crystal Harness
Tresor Paris presents a nine-piece couture collection designed by cult London fashion Label PPQ the Blue Crystal Harness is handmade in line with PPQ’s design aesthetic.
Originality: A piece or collection that has a distinctive style and showcases unique talent.
Winner: Rachel Entwistle – Shoulder Piece
The piece comes from the Memento Mori range. The designs feature bronze and silver castings of bones, use of unique vintage chain and fine chain as well as rough cut pyrite stones.
Technical Excellence: A piece or collection that boasts an impressive technical innovation or rarely used technique, resulting in a thought provoking jewel.
Winner: Filipa Oliveira – Black Preciousness Brooch
Oliveira’s work explores the ancient and traditional technique of filigree and its history, which is associated with different people, cultures and times. She contemporises filigree by creating detailed work which aptly communicates technical heritage. Her winning piece is an oxidised brooch is made of silver, 18ct yellow gold vermeil with citrine and filigree.
Highly Commended: Fei Liu – Rock Crystal Cuff
In his latest Platinum one-off pieces, Liu explores the possibilities of rock crystal as a material, with pieces created from hand-carved pieces of solid rock crystal and meticulously drilled to mount dozens of platinum and diamond butterflies. Polished to a transparent finish, Liu successfully creates the illusion of weightlessness from pieces of solid rock.