Serpentine Galleries director reveals jewellery picks for Goldsmiths’ Fair

Julia Peyton Jones

Julia Peyton-Jones, director of the Serpentine Galleries, has chosen 23 personal highlights from this year’s Goldsmiths Fair as part of her role as guest curator of the event.

The full list of selected jewellers and silversmiths can be seen below…

Laura Bangert – 18ct gold Knot ring with diamonds – £4,800 

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Exhibiting at the Fair for the first time, Bangert uses cutting-edge technology, with material dictating a variety of techniques including Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) and investment casting. Every piece is then finished by hand – surface patination, gem setting and tempering is all done traditionally. (Part One, Stand 18)

Juliette Bigley – Pair of Carafes (Milk and Cream) – £4,500 

Bigley uses a range of traditional techniques to make collections of objects, especially vessels, which are characterful and eloquent. Her work, being both sculptural and functional, communicates as much through forms as through use. (Part Two, Stand 34)

Petra Bishai – North by South East – £540

Bishai’s Cardinal Points collection is inspired by the cultural differences between north and south London. The work uses the imagery of London’s River Thames, which acts as both the heart of the city and its line of separation. Her works ask: “Can the north ever learn to love the south or will the water always divide us?” (Part One, Stand 4)

Nina Bukvic – Gold Cuff, hand woven 18ct gold – £16,950

Exhibiting at the Fair for the first time, Bukvic is fascinated with nature’s tiniest structures and textures, its infinitely complex fractal patterns, as well as ancient art and craft.  She uses the finest gold wires and precious stones, which she weaves, melts and fuses into wearable structures. (Part One, Stand 71)

Jacqueline Cullen – Whitby jet double sphere earrings with 18ct  gold granulation and champagne diamonds –£1,250

Inspired by dramatic acts of nature – a placid sky ripped open by a slash of lightening, a volcano erupting, a cliff edge left jagged from erosion – Cullen’s darkly sensual Whitby jet jewellery seduces with its luxurious cascades of textured gold or glittering diamonds flowing from hand carved fractures, fissures and crevices. (Part Two, Stand 76)

Ute Decker  Curl – sculptural ring & pendant in 18ct Fairtrade gold – £3,600

Artist-jeweller Decker’s unique and wearable sculptures are minimalist yet confidently sculptural. As with her large-scale sculptures, Decker’s jewellery pieces are equally small independent sculptures in their own right – they are just meant to be worn on the body. A champion of the ethical jewellery movement, Decker works in Fairtrade gold sourced from a small artisanal mining cooperative in the highlands of Peru. (Part One, Stand 14)

Rebecca de Quin  Vase With Blue Sleeve – £3,600

Using non-precious metal gives de Quin the opportunity to explore colour and texture, which when combined with silver, adds further distinction to this unique and fascinating material. De Quin’s work is in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s permanent collection. (Part Two, Stand 41)

Lucie Gledhill  Rope Chain Necklace – £3,500

Gledhill’s work celebrates the integrity of the hand-made, a result of a repetitive and meditative making process. In search of simple beauty, she deliberately works with a low-tech approach yet challenges ideas of tradition. She applies herself to the miniature world, where making is done in complete silence. (Part One, Stand 50)

Emmeline Hastings – V Neckpiece – £1,500

Unexpected and contrasting materials are used to create striking, beautiful and contemporary wearable objects. Hastings creates miniature, ethereal landscapes through a unique making process. Working in Perspex, her pieces are light and wearable, displaying mysterious patterns of gold, titanium and silver, seemingly organic to the form.
(Part One, Stand 54)

Teri Howes – DNA grey diamond thread through earrings –£1,625

Howes is exhibiting at the Fair for the first time.  Her designs are drawings in the air and the crochet hook is her pencil. Using 18 and 22 carat gold, she captures tiny diamonds to embellish fluid forms. Each stitch is her micro-rebellion against today’s world of instant everything. (Week Two, Stand 72)

Mara Irsara – Bra-celet – £600

Irsara’s latest body of work adds even more movement, deep hot colour and exquisite fuss. They mark the next step in her continuous exploration of merging and arranging geometries where unexpected additions and deformations culminate in a dynamic balance. Her latest pieces embody a new language of forms, a new visual vocabulary. (Part Two, Stand 21)

Stuart Jenkins – Bottle & Beaker – £4,500

Jenkins uses contrast to create a visual palette, rough with smooth, texture with polished, black with white; the silver becomes a painterly and sculptural material, in which the surface retains all evidence of the creative act. A simple hand raised bowl becomes a document of its own making, not just a silhouette, but a vessel containing the energy used to create it. (Part One, Stand 29)

Daphne Krinos – Positive -Negative ring group in 18ct gold – £3,000 each

Eye-catching and memorable jewellery are her hallmark. Discover new collectable contemporary pieces that will never age. (Part Two, Stand 83)

Gilly Langton – Buoy Neckpiece – £480

Langton takes her inspiration from the small Scottish Highland fishing village of Plockton, where she lives and creates her silver, gold and hand-dyed elastic jewellery. Gilly’s colourful jewellery reflects the aqua seas and heather blanketed hills of her breathtaking surroundings. The combination of crisp bold shapes in metal against soft ombre hues of elastic make the perfect statement piece of jewellery. (Part Two, Stand 16)

Nan Nan Liu – Sleek silver beaker – £1,600

Liu is fascinated with how time and nature create beauty through the build up of layers, producing new forms. With a passion for hand crafting she works to produce only the finest finishes, those that machines cannot achieve. (Part One, Stand 31)

Alistair McCallum – Pair of Mokume Gane beakers – £4,800

Colour and contrast combined with an understanding of function, form and pattern are central to McCallum’s work. This is expressed through his use of the Japanese metalworking technique of Mokume Gane (wood grain metal), which he has developed and practiced for over 35 years, gaining an international reputation as a leading practitioner.
(Part Two, Stand 78)

Ami Pepper – Abandoned Homes, oxidised silver – £780

Imbued with mourning for the drift and detritus of time, Pepper’s derelict treasures encapsulate the unexpected. Sculptural pieces are intricately hand carved and cast in precious metals. With scatterings of stones and detailed intricacies, Pepper, a Graduate Bursary Scheme recipient, hopes to evoke a sense of curiosity around the work.
(Part One, Stand 3)

Tom Rucker – Earrings GEO.AURIGA laser welded structure in platinum & gold, yellow diamonds, turquoise – £8,620

Rucker is an artist-goldsmith who uses state of the art laser welding technology in conjunction with superlative goldsmithing skills to create unique jewellery pieces and ‘objets d’art’. He mainly works in platinum and diamonds and is recognised globally as being one of the most influential platinum jewellery designers of his time. (Part One, Stand 58)

Kayo Saito – Seedpod brooch III – £5,000

Saito’s works echo the rustling sound of leaves, the scent of flowers and create another layer of sensation. (Part One, Stand 71)

Jo Thorne – Passion Flower Hairpin, 18ct gold and green sapphire – £26,000

New to the Fair, Jo Thorne is an award-winning goldsmith and alumna of the prestigious Crafted programme from Walpole British Luxury. She creates statement pieces that are poetic objects of beauty in themselves but that take on a new dimension when worn. Jo wants to see the once iconic fine hair accessory restored to its rightful inheritance alongside the other great feminine statements of beauty and style. Her pieces have been honoured in two successive years by The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council. (Part One, Stand 73)

Adi Toch – Vessels on Stilts – £860

Toch’s sculptural works offer an experience for the senses. Each piece invites the observer to pick it up and explore its tactile shape and intriguing function. Her work is exhibited internationally and in major public collections.
(Part Two, Stand 59)

Maud Traon – A Fairy Ring – £900

Traon’s works asks the question: “How far can the combination of craft and imagination enable us to reach the world of metaphor and dream?” (Part Two, Stand 1)

Yen – Orb Earrings – £980

Yen expresses her passion for design through jewellery, focusing on movement, articulation and fluidity. Her work addresses complexities that go beyond the purely aesthetic. Elegant and considered designs encapsulate a unique beauty, evoking a thought process that precisely questions the very essence of structure and structural elements. She creates a dynamic and exploratory experience with her sensual and versatile designs. (Part One, Stand 25)


Speaking of the 23 chosen designer-makers, Peyton-Jones notes: “Colour, form, texture and the making process play key roles in both the contemporary jewellery and silversmithing world as much of contemporary art. Like the world’s most exciting artists today, the skilled designer-makers at Goldsmiths’ Fair are constantly pushing boundaries to bring exquisite new works to the discerning public.”

The Goldsmiths’ Company director of communications and marketing,  David Mills, commented: “As one of the leading figures in the world of contemporary art, Julia Peyton-Jones brings an exacting eye and impeccable taste to the role of Guest Curator. We are thrilled that Julia is collaborating with the Fair as her highlights constitute a bridge between the jewellery and silversmithing world and cutting-edge contemporary art.”

The exhibition of contemporary jewellery and silverware will take place at London’s Goldsmiths’ Hall from September 22 to October 4. Part One takes place from September 22 to 27, while Part Two kicks off on September 29 to October 4 2015.



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