Treasure at LJW: Who to see and what’s on

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Unearth some of the most exciting design talent at Treasure 2011.

Selling show Treasure is a cornerstone event of London Jewellery Week and a hub of talent. This year the show is bigger offering visitors a mix of designers including past and present winners of Professional Jeweller’s annual competition to win a stand at Treasure, leading ethical designers and some exquisite craftspeople in a brand new section crated by Goldsmiths’ Company.

Treasure is back again as the central selling show at London Jewellery Week, which this year sees almost 150 British and international jewellery designers coming together to show off their new collections to the masses. This year, though, there are even more facets to Treasure which although remaining at its Victoria House location in London’s has evolved to make the space more visitor friendly and to accommodate even more designers. “Treasure is my favourite part of the week”, says London Jewellery Week director Della Tinsley. “It’s a chance for the public to meet jewellery designers from all over the UK, browse and buy their collections directly from them. This year we have almost 150 jewellery designers taking part in the show and we’ve changed the layout so the show is even easier to explore and designers will be categorised a little more.”

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLER WINNERS
This year will also see the three winners from Professional Jeweller’s 2011 Treasure competition, who will each have their own stand at the show. Laura Gravestock, Natalia Schroder and design duo Trisori will use their stands to introduce their jewellery collections to the masses and make the most of the opportunity to market their jewellery to a wider audience. Speaking of her anticipation of the show, Gravestock said: “I’m looking forward to it as it will bring me a whole different customer base and people who have maybe not seen my collection before, boost and credibility of doing and make new press pieces while there. Building gallery and store contacts. I will also be involved in the London Jewellery Week Select Card, offering 10% off my Promise collection during Treasure.”

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They will also attend alongside the three winners from last year’s Treasure contest, who are all returning under their own steam having had such a valuable experience last year. Zelia Horsley, who creates fashion-forward jewellery combining acrylic and layers of chains, said “Treasure is a fantastic showcase for jewellery designers and the exposure provides a platform to make new contacts to help develop business”, said Horsley reflecting on last year’s appearance. This year, back with her own stand and with her jewellery this year being featured in renowned fashion magazines including Harpers Bazaar, Horsley is looking forward to moving even further beyond the foundations made last year. So, for jewellery designers or retailers looking to size up what’s out there, Treasure is a must-see to capture some of the industry’s next big talents.

ETHICAL JEWELS
Treasure has also made sure that it focuses on this year’s big story – ethical jewellery and Fairtrade Fairmined gold. In fact, the Essence part of the show is returning, bolstered by the Ethical Jewellery Pavilion, which has not only been given a luxurious, salon-style makeover by interior design students from London Metropolitan University, but also features a larger number of ethical jewellery designers who will be unveiling new collections, including pioneers CRED Jewellery, Ute Decker, Fifi Bijoux and Anna Loucah, who made waves earlier this year with her ethical jewellery, designed for and worn by Colin Firth’s wife Livia Firth at the Oscars.

The Pavilion will also be host to the first Fairtrade Friday at the show, a day dedicated to all things ethical, which will see guest appearances from Colombian gold miner Luis Americo Mosquera, who has worked tirelessly for eight years as part of the Oro Verde mine, the first to be fully certified as mining Fairtrade Fairmined Ecological gold; the same gold used by the twenty designers and retailers specially selected earlier this year to initiate the use of Fairtrade Fairmined gold in the UK.

A number of talks and introductions into Fairtrade Fairmined gold and recycled metals will also be held, and Decker – who will be unveiling her first 18ct Fairtrade Fairmined gold collection at Essence – says that the talks are must for anyone interested in learning more about this ever growing part of the UK industry. “This year we have seen the establishment for a special mark for Fairtrade Fairmined gold in the UK, so the talks will be perfect for any discerning jewellery lover who is interested in learning more.”

GOLDSMITHS’ COMPANY PAVILION
A new addition to Treasure this year will be the Goldsmiths’ Pavilion which will run from Friday to Sunday at LJW within the Victoria House setting. Showcasing fine jewellery design from the likes of Daphne Krinos, who is inspired by architecture and platinum designer Tom Rucker, the Goldsmiths’ Pavilion aims to show off the most innovative and creative jewellery designers that are currently working within the UK.

As an offshoot of the last 28 years of success that the Goldsmiths’ Fair has seen, the Pavilion is described as a fresh platform that the Goldsmiths’ Company, and as a new addition to its portfolio of annual events it will be promoting its designers to help them build their businesses and reputations as designers while getting their names out there in the public domain. Paul Dyson, who has been directing the promotion of the Goldsmiths’ Pavilion said: “It’s through the events such as the Goldsmiths’ Pavilion, our online directory Who’s Who in Gold and Silver, and our annual Goldsmith’s Fair that we’re able to best promote the fantastic community of jewellers we have here in the UK. There are so many gifted designer-makers, so we’re working hard to ensure the British jewellery trade is getting all the recognition it deserves.”

Designers to keep an eye on at the Goldsmiths’ Pavilion include William Cheshire (who is also features in our Best of British page this month). Cheshire spoke with Professional Jeweller ahead of his appearance: “Goldsmiths got in touch and asked if I’d be interested in taking a stand and I thought why not. Goldsmiths have got the most fantastic list of people that they can tap into and that’s what we need – lots of people coming down. Paul [Dyson] is very aware that he invites people that come to spend money. There are no holds barred with Paul.”

Others worth admiring include the west-country’s finest Tina Engell, gold designer Polly Gasston, who features in our photoshoot on p.30 this month and Lilly Hastedt, who has recently opened her first boutique close to London’s Sloane Square. A number of up-and-coming designers will also be on show as part of the Goldsmith’s Pavilion including quirky designer Ornella Ianuzzi, who takes much inspiration from nature and the sea, as does Ros Millar who was one of Professional Jeweller’s Treasure finalists this year. Be sure to also admire the work of Mark Nuell, Paul Spurgeon, Liz Tyler, Jesper Velling, Jean Scott-Moncrieff and Jessica Poole, who was voted one of the NexGems in the Professional Jeweller Hot 100 2010.

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