From costume neckpieces in neon hues to pavé petal cocktail rings.
Floral motifs have been revived for SS14 in a host of incarnations, from chunky acrylic cuffs to delicate diamond earrings. Kathryn Bishop discovers what’s blossoming this season.
Fom Fei Liu’s Peony collection to Zoe & Morgan’s Hindu-inspired Mandala ring, an array of flower jewellery has bloomed for SS14.
The flower is one of jewellery’s most timeless and feminine themes, but these attributes are not its limitations. Instead, floral motifs have been refreshed for a new season by a swathe of fashion-led brands and fine jewellery houses, toying with pavé-set petals or details picked out in eye-catching tropical hues.
Floral jewellery can be bold in its use of colour, petal shapes can be oversized, and designs are becoming ever-more abstract in their manifestation. The flower shape also lends itself well to collections, enabling companies to build a range from a single flower pendant to statement designs with clusters of flowers that tumble from the ear or wrap around the wrist.
PRETTY LITTLE THINGS
The most delicate versions of floral jewellery are also those that showcase the simplest of flower designs that are classic in their presentation.
London-based designer Lindsay Pearson is inspired by the sentimentality of jewellery, often referencing trinkets from bygone eras. Her Botanical Rose sapphire and diamond ring is cast from a vintage button, giving it a subtle surface texture and a relief floral motif.
“Flowers are timeless,” Pearson states. “Every season you see botanical prints on the catwalk.” Pearson describes flowers as beautiful things that can be worn by every age and style. “When people are buying precious jewellery, they want to wear it for years, so the floral motif is the perfect fit.”
The signature collection from Elements Gold features contemporary, matt-finished flower earrings with white pearls at their centre, contrasted by a more traditional offer – a polished yellow gold diamond-set flower pendant on a sparkling curb chain.
Diamonds also adorn the somewhat abstract Nectar Clover rings by British jeweller Robinson Pelham. These easy-to-wear rings, made in white, yellow and rose gold, are set with a sprinkling of stones that subtly pick out the soft, flower shape of each ring, most obvious when viewed in profile.
EXOTIC FLORA AND FAUNA
As we approach summer and buyers look to add some seasonal collections to their offer, tropical colours will certainly come into play and, when teamed with more exotic floral shapes, they equate to fresh and bold jewellery collections.
Costume jeweller Katherine Alexander deconstructs vintage bead, glass and metal jewellery to create her colourful collections, using these elements to make one-of-a-kind, leather-lined Perspex cuffs. “Flowers and leaves are some of the most popular themes to be found when sourcing vintage jewellery, and each era has its own interpretation of florals, whether life-like, abstract or something in between,” she explains. “The shapes I like best create lively mini bouquets or modern corsages for the wrist.”
At Fiorelli Jewellery, its SS14 summer collection of crystal necklaces packs plenty of punch with splashes of neon pink and contrasting hues of turquoise, royal blue and emerald green. The result is a fresh, fashion-forward floral collection with price points to match.
At the higher end of the spectrum sit Cartier’s delicate Caresse d’orchidées par Cartier earrings, a pair of exotically colourful orchid studs with delicately trembling rose quartz briolette drops. Each earring is embellished with white diamonds, pink sapphires, rhodolite garnets and pink tourmalines – gems that allude to this year’s Pantone colour of the year, a bright purple hue aptly titled Radiant Orchid.
British brand Shaun Leane, known for its edgier take on fine jewellery, recently updated its Cherry Blossom collection with a statement cuff featuring six blossom flowers on a branch-like bangle, each picked out in milky enamel.
The Cherry Blossom collection has become one of the brand’s signature lines, the flowers given some Shaun Leane edge with a delicately spiked finish and curling branch motifs used to form the base of its rings and pendants.
Birmingham’s Fei Liu launched its Peony collection in 2013, with layers of petals that wrap into each other, with micro pavé-set cubic zirconia. The Peony collection was designed to exude opulence, glamour and romance and its all-over pavé gives the effect of haute joaillerie design without the price tag.
For a luxe take on florals, French brand Messika’s evocatively-named Eden collection conjures up images of vines, flora and fauna. Its designs range from the most delicate of floral rings on beaded white gold bands, to lace-like openwork cuffs and chain drop earrings with diamond-set flower pendants.
When it comes to florals in SS14, there truly is something to suit every style. As Katherine Alexander notes: “Floral themes can be from a romantic era or revved up for today’s harder edge, but are always timeless by their nature.”
This Trends feature was taken from the February issue of Professional Jeweller. To read the issue in full online click here.