WORLD EXCLUSIVE: Graff develops own watch movement

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Graff Calibre 1 housed in GraffStar will be unveiled at BaselWorld.

Professional Jeweller can exclusively reveal that Graff has developed its own watch movement for the first time and will be unveiling the movement, which it has dubbed Graff Calibre 1, at BaselWorld this week.

The movement will be showcased in an updated version of Graff’s men’s dress watch Graffstar Tourbillon, and Graff Luxury Watches chief executive Michel Pitteloud told Professional Jeweller that there are plans to create an automatic movement and then a chronograph. “The idea is there will be a Calibre 1, then Calibre 2 and so on,” said Pitteloud.

Graff, which launched a range of luxury watches two years ago, had previously been using redecorated ETA movements in its watches, but now has its own movement, which has been made in Geneva. The hand-wound Graff Calibre 1 beats at 28,8000 vph, has a power reserve of 50 hours that can be monitored via a power reserve indication at 6 o’clock, and shows the date in large numerals at 12 o’clock and seconds in a sub-dial at 9 o’clock.

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The Graff Calibre 1 movement can be seen through the transparent sapphire caseback of the GraffStar Tourbillon. The movement is decorated with red jewels and blue screw heads with level areas finished in matte black and crisscrossed by pink or golden lines forming a facetted pattern. A more unusual touch is the specially designed ratchet wheel, open-worked to recall triangular gemstone facets.

Only five platinum and 34ct diamond GraffStar Tourbillons will be created, all of which will be sold excusively at Graff’s own stores. The faceted bezel of the timepiece has been set with 24 specially selected Graff diamonds, while the balance weight,bridge and rotor are each set with baguette diamonds and the face is decorated with a mosaic setting of trapeze and baguette diamonds and baguette emeralds. The watch has a black croco strap and white gold buckle paved with 30 diamonds, plus the Graff Luxury Watch signature emerald triangle at 12 o’clock.

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