An investigation into the ethical practices of 13 of the industry’s top jewellers revealed none can be ranked ‘excellent’ when assessing steps taking to ensure responsible sourcing.
In the ‘The Hidden Cost of Jewellery: Human Rights in Supply Chains and the Responsibility of Jewellery Companies’ report, the Human Rights Watch examines the policies and practices of the following jewellery firms: Boodles, Bulgari, Cartier, Chopard, Christ, Harry Winston, Kalyan, Pandora, Rolex, Signet, Tanishq, Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri Ltd. (TBZ Ltd.), and Tiffany and Co.
Click the links below to view the individual reviews Human Rights Watch’s posted on each company which provided information for the report:
When preparing its report, Human Rights Watch sent letters to the 13 companies, requesting information about their policies and practices in relation to human rights due diligence and the sourcing of their gold and diamonds. These 13 companies were selected to include some of the industry’s largest and best-known jewellery and watch companies and to reflect different geographic markets.
Of the top jewellery firms contacted, ten companies responded: Boodles, Bulgari, Cartier, Chopard, Christ, Harry Winston, Pandora, Signet (parent company of Kay Jewelers, Zales, Ernest Jones, and H. Samuel), Tanishq, and Tiffany. Nine sent written responses. Of those, six companies agreed to meet with Human Rights Watch. Three did not respond: Kalyan, Rolex, and TBZ.
Based on information publicly available or provided by the companies, Human Rights Watch ranked the 13 companies according to specific responsible sourcing criteria, including efforts to assess and respond to human rights risks, establish traceability, and publicly report about the company’s actions.
Human Rights Watch found that none of the 13 could be ranked as “excellent” but ranked one – Tiffany and Co. – as “strong” for taking significant steps toward responsible sourcing; and four – Bulgari, Cartier, Pandora, and Signet – as “moderate” for taking some important steps toward responsible sourcing.
Four others – Boodles, Chopard, Christ, and Harry Winston – were ranked as “weak” for taking few steps toward responsible sourcing, and Tanishq as “very weak,” due to a lack of any evidence of steps towards responsible sourcing. The three companies that did not respond were not ranked because they do not disclose any information regarding their sourcing policies and practices.