Oversized brand plays with metals and themes for limited-edition runs.

Italian watch brand U-Boat has launched three novelties at BaselWorld, including a bespoke black and white diamond-set timepiece called the Black Swan and a sizeable 53mm automatic timepiece crafted in bronze and titanium.

The Black Swan has become the brand’s hero piece at this year’s show and was created from a brief given to U-Boat’s designer Italo Fontana by a private Asian customer, who is said to have paid in the region of £80,000 for the watch.


It is set with 11cts of black diamonds, with many set upside-down to create a spiked look reminiscent of sprouting, spiky feathers – a play on a scene from last year’s hit film Black Swan.

The B&B watch, which stands for bronze and black, was another novelty on show. The 53mm watch is limited to 300 pieces and is crafted in blackened titanium with bronze hands, a double layer black and bronze dial and bronze plated crown, buckle, bezel screws, bezel release lever and serial number case plate.

The new collection also includes a GMT timepiece based on U-Boat’s U-42 watch, and a new take on last year’s 1001 watch, with exposed 9mm deep sapphire crystal glass, mimicking portholes.

Designer Italo Fontana told WatchPro that the new 1001 had been fully tested to a depth beyond 1001m, with the glass itself a further 9mm below the case surface.

The timepieces will be released this summer.