Oversized brand plays with metals and themes for limited edition runs.

Italian watch brand U-Boat launched three novelties at BaselWorld this year, including a bespoke black and white-diamond set timepiece called the Black Swan and a sizeable 53mm automatic timepiece crafted in bronze and titanium.

The Black Swan has become the brand’s hero piece at this year’s show and was created from a brief given to U-Boat’s designer Italo Fontana by a private Asian customer, who is said to have paid in the region of £80,000 for the watch.


It is set with 11cts of black diamonds, with many set upside-down to create a spiked look reminiscent of sprouting, spiky feathers and a play on a scene from last year’s hit film of the same the name.

The B&B watch, which stands for ‘bronze and black’, was another novelty on show. The 53mm watch is limited to 300 pieces and is crafted in blackened titanium with bronze hands, double layer black and bronze dial and bronze plated crown, buckle, bezel screws, bezel release lever and on the serial numbering case plate.

The new collection also includes a GMT timepiece, based on its U-42 watch, and a new play on last year’s 1001 watch, with exposed 9mm deep sapphire crystal glass, mimicking a porthole of sorts.

Designer Italo Fontana told Professional Jeweller that the new 1001 had been fully tested to a depth beyond 1001m, with the glass itself a further 9mm below the case surface.

The timepieces will be released this summer.